Pampushky - Ukrainian garlic bread

Bread is a vital part of Ukrainian identity. When people ask me why the Ukrainian flag has two colors - blue and yellow, I like to go on Google and pull up a picture of a vast field of wheat under a deep blue sky. This way not only does it explain the colors but people also can remember which color is supposed to be at the top and which at the bottom (that's how I learned it as well).

In school, we were taught how for centuries, since the beginning of civilization, ancient Ukrainians prided themselves in breadmaking. Ukraine has been blessed with very rich, fertile land which has made it possible for generations of farmers to support themselves. But this is also a reason why Ukrainian land has always been so desirable for other nations which ultimately led to Ukraine becoming colonized for much of its history. 

"Хліб усьому голова" ("Bread is the head of everything") is a saying that has been taught to us as children in school. Even throwing away bread was considered a sin. If a loaf of bread started getting moldy or stale we were told to put it on the outside part of the windowsill for the birds. 

Of course, not everyone shared this sentiment. The diet culture has been growing rapidly for as long as I remember. Even in kindergarten I remember one of the girls arguing with a teacher that she just won't eat the food because she was on a diet. In such a way she was clearly mimicking behavior she must have seen at home. 

Between hearing in school that bread is akin to something holy and hearing at home that bread was nearly evil as it would make you gain weight I was confused, to say the least. 

Now that I have gathered my own experience I can say that bread is neither holy nor evil. It should be seen for what it is - a food that is delicious, nutritious, and versatile. It dates back generations and brings people together because all Ukrainians know what it tastes like and hopefully get reminded of the happy memories of their childhood when they eat it.

Of course, just like with everything else you know yourself best, and not everyone can enjoy traditional bread for it contains gluten. If that's you then this particular recipe is not suitable for you, I'm afraid. 

It is my goal to experiment with all kinds of recipes and in the future, I intend to have gluten-free versions available as well. But for now, I want to stick with the classics where I can. 

Today I bring pampushky (пампушки) to the spotlight. This simple garlic bread is a staple and a loyal companion to any kind of soup in any traditional Ukrainian food setting. 

Many people, especially men who are under less pressure to keep themselves thin will find it hard to imagine a proper meal without fresh bread, such as pampushky, for example. 

I have almost forgotten about this part of the culture after living in Germany for so long but then a few years ago when my father visited me in Berlin and I took him to a Vietnamese restaurant he asked me to ask the waiter for bread. There was none available, as I suspected. I was already concerned we will have to look for another restaurant as it seemed that was a deal breaker to my dad, but in the end, we compromised on an extra bowl of rice. 

 

Tips and notes:

  • For this recipe you can use the most basic flour (make sure to stick with regular white flour) you can find where you live, no need to get fancy here. If possible and if you prefer you should look for organic flour as it can be easier on the body in the long run
  • This recipe will not work or be the same without yeast. Once you buy your yeast try to use it up within a few months. Store your dry yeast in a cool, dark place, or even in a fridge, especially if it has been opened. Make sure that the yeast is stored in an airtight container because contact with air may kill it. It sounds dramatic but when speaking about yeast that doesn't work people simply say that it is dead. Which is exactly what you don't want to happen. 
  • If it does happen that after mixing the dough and leaving it to rest you notice that the yeast did NOT double in size (meaning the yeast did not work properly) there is still an opportunity to fix the pampushky. Grab another package of yeast and double the amount, meaning use 18 grams instead of 9. And now mix up another dough from scratch and use the doubled amount of yeast. Lastly, combine the two doughs and make a double pampushky batch. Hopefully, the second yeast you use is alive and the whole batch will rise nicely. I have certainly saved my pampushky without throwing away dough like this before. Note that you cannot just add dry yeast to the dough once it has been kneaded because the yeast will not incorporate properly and remain powdered. 
  • As an alternative, meaning if all fails you can try to use baking soda plus an acidic ingredient. Use about 5 grams of baking soda (not to be confused with baking powder) and about 5 grams of an acidic ingredient of your choice, such as vinegar or lemon juice. Baking powder and an acidic ingredient will cause an immediate reaction and will foam up, once mixed into the dough it will increase (double) in size. Unlike when using yeast, when using baking soda you need to put the dough in the oven as soon as possible as there is only so long the chemical reaction is active. Meaning, skip the dough resting time, instead make the balls, and put the pampushky in the oven right away. Note that I have not tried this method on pampushky but I have used it to save other dough projects with success. 
  • It is very important to warm up the milk before using it because the yeast will not rise if the conditions are too cold. My apartment is normally rather cold so especially in the winter I have often experienced that the dough did not rise. On the cold days additionally to warming up the milk I take a large enough bowl and fill it up with hot water. I then place the bowl with the dough inside the bowl with the water. This way the yeast has extra warmth and is more likely to rise properly. 

Vegan Pampushky (Ukrainian Garlic Bread)

 

 

Ingredients

 

500 grams flour (450 or 550 Weizenmehl in Germany, basically any regular flour you can find; if possible go for organic) plus more for kneading

9 grams dry yeast powder (or as big as 1 package of dry yeast you bought is, usually between 7 and 9 grams)

1 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon sugar

250 milliliters hot oat milk (warm up the milk until it is steaming but not boiling)

2 tablespoons neutral vegetable oil plus more for greasing the baking dish

 

For the topping:

 

2 tablespoons oat milk (this time it doesn't matter if the milk is cold)

6 tablespoons neutral vegetable oil (such as sunflower)

2 cloves of garlic, minced 

1 teaspoon salt

2 bundles of fresh dill or fresh parsley or a mix of both, finely chopped

 

 

Instructions

 

1. Begin by heating the oat milk. I have a barista milk jug that I use to warm up the oat milk for coffee, but also any small pot will do. On medium-high heat wait until the milk becomes visibly steamy but not bubbly yet. Set aside.

2. In a large bowl combine the dry ingredients and mix well.

3. Now add some of the oat milk and mix with a large spoon. Keep adding oat milk and eventually oil in parts and keep stirring. If you add everything at once the flour will make clumps and it will be harder to break them. 

4. Once the ingredients are more or less incorporated used your hands to knead the dough. It's easiest to use the palm of your hand to do this. First, use your fingers to scrape the dough into a ball and then the palm of your hand to press it down. Keep repeating for a while until the dough is well incorporated and smooth, with no lumps. For this part you can even sit down in front of the TV if it gets too boring (which is what I do and it helps a lot). 

5. Put the dough back into the bowl and cover it with a damp towel or any lid. Put it in a warm place if you have one and let the dough rest for an hour or longer. 

6. After this step the dough needs to double in size. If it didn't then something went wrong and you can't proceed to the next step. See notes for how you may still be able to save the bread. 

7. Knead the dough briefly again and transfer it to a floured surface. Cut the dough into 12 equal parts and form them into balls. The balls should be about 3 centimeters in diameter. 

 

 

8. Take out a bread backing form or a small baking dish. Oil its bottom and sides, best if you use a brush. Place the dough balls into the pan and make sure they are touching each other and are neither too tight nor too far apart. 

9. Cover the dish with a towel and let rest for 20 minutes. 

10. After 10 minutes preheat the oven to 180 degrees Celcius. 

11. Bake the bread on the middle level for about 15 minutes or until the dough becomes nicely brown at the top. There is a thin line between it being done and overdone. I personally like it to get the nice brown color but not too brown but I know people who love it to be deep brown, leaning to black so it might depend on your taste. 

12. While the bread is baking you can make the topping. To do so mix all the ingredients in a small bowl. To get the best aroma out of the garlic you can use a mortar to smash it further after chopping it. 

13. As soon as the bread is done take it out of the oven and pour the topping over. Try your best to wait until the bread is warm and not hot anymore before you take it out and enjoy!